Lake Natron

Lake Natron lies on the floor of the Great Rift Valley, close to the Kenyan border, at about 600 metres above sea level. It's shallow, hot and extremely alkaline. In the dry months, salt-loving microorganisms stain parts of the lake red and orange. To the south rises Ol Doinyo Lengai, an active volcano the Maasai call the Mountain of God.

This isn't a game park, and it isn't for everyone. Natron suits travellers who want raw landscape, geology and birds, and who don't mind a rough road and serious heat. Visits are subject to operational availability, so mention it early if you'd like to include it.

• Lesser flamingo: Natron is the main breeding site for lesser flamingo in East Africa. The nests sit out on caustic mudflats that people and predators can't reach, so you see the birds feeding in the shallows rather than the colonies themselves. Numbers vary a great deal with the water level.
• Engare Sero waterfall: a walk up a narrow gorge, wading through the stream in places, to a waterfall in a rock amphitheatre. It's usually done with a local guide in the morning or late afternoon.
• Ancient footprints: near Engare Sero, a field of human footprints preserved in hardened volcanic mud can be visited with a guide.
• Ol Doinyo Lengai: the climb is steep, on loose ash, and starts around midnight to avoid the heat. It's only for fit, experienced hikers, and it depends on conditions on the volcano.
• Maasai country: Maasai communities live around the lake, and village visits can sometimes be arranged.

You'll see some giraffe, zebra and ostrich on the drive in, but wildlife is thin compared with the parks.

All of these are arranged locally, where permitted and subject to availability.

• June to October: dry and slightly less hot. The main window, and in many years a good time for flamingo along the shore.
• November and December: the short rains, often light, with rising heat.
• January and February: very hot, with clear skies between showers.
• March to May: the long rains make the road harder, and some days it may not be passable.

One night is enough to see the shore and walk to the waterfall. Two nights suit anyone climbing Ol Doinyo Lengai, since the climb takes most of a night and the next morning is for rest.

Natron is off the usual circuit, north of Lake Manyara and the town of Mto wa Mbu. Most travellers drive up from Mto wa Mbu and return the same way. Where road conditions allow, it's also possible to continue north-west towards the Serengeti through Loliondo. It's a long, rough drive, but it turns the detour into a loop.

A private tailor-made safari gives you the flexibility to include it. Photographers come for the colours and the low light (see photographic safaris), and the waterfall walk is covered under walking safaris.

• Road: from Mto wa Mbu it's about 3 to 4 hours, partly on rough road.
• Heat: middays are very hot. Walk early or late, wear a hat and carry plenty of water.
• Where you stay: the choice is a handful of tented camps and simple lodges, mostly at comfort level. Luxury options are few.
• Footwear: sandals or shoes you don't mind getting wet for the gorge walk, and sturdy boots for Lengai.